Kaygana: Discover ancient Roman roots behind this beloved Turkish egg dish

In the modern-day Black Sea region of Türkiye, a traditional dish known as kaygana—made with eggs—has been traced back to the Roman Empire. This simple yet flavorful creation, which has evolved into an essential part of the local cuisine, is believed to have Roman origins.

The Roman version of this dish was called Ova Spongia ex Lacte, or “Eggs Sponge with Milk,” and was likely a precursor to the beloved Turkish dish.

Ancient recipe: Ova Spongia ex Lacte

When we think of Ancient Rome, it is easy to imagine grand feasts and elaborate meals, but not all Roman dishes were extravagant. Among the simpler recipes was Ova Spongia ex Lacte, a dish made from eggs, milk, honey, and pepper—a perfect balance of sweet and savory.

This ancient Roman creation, similar to a sweet omelet, comes from the famous Apicius De Re Coquinaria cookbook, dating back to the late 4th or early 5th century A.D. Named after the renowned Roman gourmet Marcus Gavius Apicius, this cookbook is one of the primary sources on Roman culinary practices. Its recipes show a clever use of basic ingredients transformed into extraordinary meals, with Ova Spongia ex Lacte being a prime example.

Taste of ancient Rome: Simplicity meets flavor

The Roman version of this dish used ingredients that were widely available in the empire: eggs, milk, olive oil, honey, and pepper. The combination of eggs and milk created a rich, nutritious base, while the honey and pepper added a unique flavor profile. Romans were known for their love of blending sweet and savory, and this dish exemplifies that characteristic.

Despite being a simpler fare, Ova Spongia ex Lacte was likely enjoyed by a wide range of people, from the elite to ordinary Romans. While more lavish meals might have been reserved for the wealthy, this dish could be found in both Roman homes and inns along Roman roads, offering a satisfying meal for travelers.

Ingredients

• 4 large eggs
• 250 ml milk
• 25 g olive oil
• Honey (to taste)
• Freshly ground black pepper

Method

1. In a bowl, whisk the eggs thoroughly and combine with the milk and a small amount of olive oil.
2. Heat the olive oil in a pan over medium heat. Once hot, pour a ladle of the egg mixture into the pan.
3. Cook the mixture without flipping, allowing it to set completely.
4. Transfer the cooked omelettes to a plate, drizzle generously with honey, and sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper.
5. Serve immediately and enjoy this simple yet flavorful dish inspired by ancient Roman cuisine.

Turkish connection: From Rome to Anatolia

It is believed that the Romans brought the recipe for Ova Spongia ex Lacte to Anatolia, where it evolved into the modern-day kaygana. This dish’s journey through history is a testament to the cross-cultural exchanges that shaped the culinary landscape of Türkiye and beyond. The simplicity and versatility of the dish allowed it to be passed down through generations, eventually becoming a beloved food in the Black Sea region.

Kaygana’s role in Turkish cuisine and cultural heritage

The dish’s place in Turkish cuisine is not just as a simple comfort food but also as a reminder of the ancient cultural ties between Türkiye and the Roman Empire. According to historian Marianna Yerasimos in her book “500 Years of Ottoman Cuisine,” the exact origins of kaygana remain unclear, but it has been a part of the Turkish culinary tradition for centuries. Yerasimos even mentions two types of kaygana in Ottoman cuisine, including the patlican kayganasi (eggplant kaygana), showcasing the dish’s adaptability.

As Türkiye continues to celebrate its rich culinary history, the story of kaygana is a powerful reminder of the lasting impact of ancient Roman cooking practices. This simple yet significant dish connects the past with the present, reflecting the evolving nature of food and culture in Türkiye.

Opportunity for branding: Missing bark with eggs

While kaygana holds a special place in Turkish food culture, there is untapped potential for branding and modernizing this dish. The egg, a key ingredient in kaygana, has long been a staple in cuisines worldwide but remains underutilized in terms of brand recognition in Türkiye.

Developing a unique identity around egg-based dishes like kaygana could not only highlight Türkiye’s culinary heritage but also establish a modern market presence for this timeless food.