Istanbul through French writer Pierre Loti’s eyes

Famous French writer Pierre Loti, known for bringing the exotic East to life, is remembered as one of the pioneers of cross-cultural literary exploration. Among his many travels, it was his love affair with Istanbul that left an indelible mark on his imagination, inspiring his most famous works.

Today, his memories of the city still resonate with those who seek to understand Istanbul’s unique blend of cultures and history, a city where East and West meet and influence one another.

Loti’s bond with Istanbul

Loti, whose real name was Julien Viaud, first arrived in Istanbul in the late 19th century as a young naval officer. He was struck by the calm and stillness of the city, which stood in contrast to the hustle and bustle of European cities. Unlike other Western travelers who were drawn to Istanbul’s exoticism, Loti found peace in the city’s slower and more reflective rhythm. The streets, lined with mosques, wooden houses and shaded gardens seemed to invite reflection. It was a city of endless wonders but also one that allowed for moments of deep introspection.

Pierre Loti Hill: A place for inspiration

One of the Loti’s favorite spots in Istanbul was Pierre Loti Hill located in the Eyup district, which was later named in his honor. He would frequently sit on the hill and look out over the sea, enjoying the city’s splendor which offered a view of the Golden Horn. He would stay there for hours on end, letting the serene ambiance inspire his imagination. He felt closest to the center of Istanbul on this hill that was surrounded by the attractiveness of the city. Pierre Loti hill remains a popular spot in Istanbul, where visitors can enjoy a cup of tea at a cafe while taking in the stunning landscape that once inspired the French writer.

Through his travels, Loti gained rich insights into Ottoman society in the daily lives of its people and the political and social concerns of the era. His literary works such as “Aziyade” (1879), a love story set in Selanik and Istanbul, “La Turquie Agonisante” (Dying Türkiye, 1913), a commentary on Western Powers’ indifference toward the Ottoman Empire during the Balkan Wars and “Supremes Visions d’Orient” (Supreme Visions of the East, 1921), which deals with Türkiye’s defense of its sovereignty after World War I, are all deeply influenced by his time in Istanbul.

Foreigner among locals

Unlike other Western travelers such as Gerard de Nerval or Theophile Gautier, who visited Istanbul and merely documented their observations, Loti’s connection with the city was more profound. What set him apart was his sincere attempt to immerse himself in the local culture. Although he was a foreigner in Istanbul, Loti sought to live like a local. He spent time getting to know the people rather than remaining on the periphery of Ottoman society. Loti would often wear traditional Turkish clothing such as fes to blend in and experience the city as locals did.

Despite his advocacy for the Turks and his efforts to break down the prejudices that the West held toward the Ottoman Empire and the East, Loti couldn’t completely escape the grip of Orientalist discourse. In his works, he sometimes depicted the East as a mysterious, sensual world. This is visible in “Aziyade”, where he depicts Istanbul’s harem life as an alluring and mysterious experience echoing the Orientalist themes usually found in Western literature in that era.

‘True friend of Turks’

Loti’s engagement with the Ottoman world and his eventual affection for the Turkish people earned him significant recognition in Türkiye during the 1910s and he was hailed as ‘’the Turk’s only true friend.’’ His name was commemorated in Istanbul with streets and a cafe named after him.

How to get to Pierre Loti

For those who are seeking breathtaking views of the Golden Horn the Eyup-Pierre Loti, (TF-2) cable car offers a unique and memorable journey.

Starting from Eyup, near the iconic Eyup Sultan Mosque, the cable rides last only 2-3 minutes but offer passengers an unforgettable panoramic view of the Golden Horn and parts of the historic skyline of Istanbul.