From Ottoman palaces to your table, sweet story of ‘gullac’

With the arrival of the holy month of Ramadan, markets and bakeries across Türkiye are filling with the traditional and beloved Ramadan sweets.

Among them, gullac stands out as a light, refreshing dessert that has been cherished for centuries. Its delicate flavor and history make it a staple on Iftar tables, enjoyed not only after the evening meal but also alongside tea.

This light and milky dessert has been pleasing palates for centuries, offering a unique blend of flavors that appeal to all.

From Ottoman palaces to modern kitchens

Historical records reveal that gullac entered the Ottoman culinary world in the 1400s. According to the book Gulbeseker-Turk Tatlilari Tarihi (History of Turkish Desserts), the dessert was initially known in three forms: egg-based gullac, pan-cooked gullac, and the classic version. Sheets of dough made from cornstarch were once softened with milk and sugar, eventually giving rise to the rosewater-infused ‘gullu as,’ which evolved into the gullac we know today.

Sources indicate that gullac was first served in the Ottoman Palace in 1489. The delicate dough, known as ‘varak,’ was a creation of Ali Usta from Kastamonu. With a surplus of varak, he crafted a dessert by soaking the sheets in a syrup made with sugar and rosewater.

His creation became a hit with palace officials visiting Kastamonu, leading to his appointment as the chief dessert maker in the palace. Gullac became a favorite, particularly during Ramadan, as historical records from 1642-1654 show the purchase of 10,300 varak sheets for the palace kitchen.

Why is gullac a Ramadan favorite?

Gullac is enjoyed throughout the year, but its popularity soars during Ramadan. The dessert’s appeal lies in its lightness—ideal for ending a heavy Iftar meal without overloading the stomach.

According to nutritionists, opting for a low-calorie dessert like gullac after Iftar helps maintain balanced blood sugar levels, preventing spikes that can result from richer sweets.

The dessert is made with cornstarch dough, milk, sugar, and a splash of rosewater, which offers a refreshing aroma. Its versatility also allows for creative garnishing with fruits like strawberries and cherries, adding both flavor and color.

How to make traditional gullac at home

Ingredients:

• 12 gullac sheets
• 1.5 liters of milk
• 2 cups of sugar
• Crushed walnuts
• 2 tablespoons of rosewater (optional)

For garnishing:

• Ground pistachios or walnuts
• Candied cherries or pomegranate seeds

Preparation steps:

1. Heat milk and sugar in a saucepan until the sugar dissolves. Avoid overheating the milk.
2. Let the milk cool to a warm temperature. Overheating can turn the dessert into a soggy mess.
3. Lay the first gullac sheet in a deep tray with the shiny side up.
4. Pour a ladle of milk evenly over the sheet. Repeat this process with six sheets.
5. After the sixth layer, sprinkle a generous amount of crushed walnuts.
6. Continue layering the remaining sheets, moistening each with milk.
7. Mix rosewater into the remaining milk and pour it over the dessert.
8. Refrigerate for at least two hours, allowing the dessert to set.
9. Before serving, decorate with pistachios or walnuts and candied cherries or pomegranate seeds.

Secret to perfect gullac

In 2018, gullac producer Zeynep Sipani revealed the dessert’s secret: “Mix water and cornstarch, pour onto hot pans, and cook. The key to thin sheets lies in the ladling technique and pouring style.”

She advised using 2 liters of milk, 750 grams of sugar, and 10 sheets of gullac for homemade versions. The milk should be warm, similar to the temperature for yogurt making, to achieve a perfectly risen dessert.

Gullac remains a symbol of Ramadan, celebrated for its lightness and the cooling aroma of rosewater. Its enduring popularity from the Ottoman era to modern homes highlights the timeless appeal of this delicate dessert.