Skip to content

Flavors of Anatolia: Bonito recipe from antiquity to today

Top view of freshly caught bonito fish on black slate stone with fresh dill, lemon slices, and crushed ice. bonito recipe Top view of freshly caught bonito fish on black slate stone, garnished with fresh dill, lemon slices, and crushed ice. (Adobe Stock Photo)
By Koray Erdogan
Jan 27, 2025 2:24 PM

The culinary history of Anatolia is rich and diverse, stretching from ancient times to the present day. One of the remarkable aspects of this history is the continuity of traditional recipes, including the ancient bonito recipe, which has undergone slight variations throughout the centuries.

From the classical period to today, the methods and ingredients may have changed, but the essence of Anatolian cuisine remains deeply rooted in its rich history. This article explores the historical significance and modern interpretation of some of Anatolia’s most beloved flavors.

Market stall displaying Atlantic bonito (Sarda sarda) fish in Türkiye.
Market stall with Atlantic bonito (sarda sarda) fish in Türkiye. (Adobe Stock Photo)

Black Sea fish: A timeless ingredient

No meal in the Black Sea region is complete without fish. Traditional methods of preparation, including grilling, frying, or baking in a clay dish, continue to showcase the fresh and delicious fish caught in the region’s waters. One of the most iconic fish is palamut (bonito recipe), mentioned by the ancient poet Arkhestratus in his writings.

A piece of palamut fish wrapped in fig leaves, ready for cooking. bonito recipe
Bonito wrapped in fig leaves and ready to be cooked. (Photo via Whisk and Dine)

His advice on preparing palamut was simple but effective: wrap it in fig leaves, season it with marjoram, and cook it over hot coals.

This method remains popular today, especially in Black Sea cuisine, where palamut tava (fried bonito recipe) is a beloved dish.

Clay plate with oven-baked bonito, without fig leaves.
A plate made of clay with oven-baked bonito. The fig leaves mentioned in the recipe are not present in this photo. (Photo via Pinterest)

Modern bonito recipe: Kiremitte palamut (Bonito on clay)

Today, bonito recipe is often prepared in the same traditional style as described by Arkhestratus, using locally grown herbs. Here’s a modern take on an ancient recipe, using fig leaves and clay pots for cooking.

Ingredients (serves four):

  • 1 large bonito
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 fig leaves
  • Salt
  • Black pepper

Instructions:

  1. Clean and wash the bonito, making a long incision from the head to the tail along the backbone. Remove any internal organs.
  2. Rub the fish with olive oil, seasoning it with salt and black pepper.
  3. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees Celsius (392 degrees Fahreheit). Lay the fig leaves in a clay dish and place the fish on top.
  4. Lower the temperature to 180°C (356°F) and bake for 20-25 minutes.
  5. Serve hot and enjoy the flavors of ancient Anatolia!
Two wooden spoon filled with various spices on a white background, isolated for clear visibility.
Spices in two wooden spoon. (Adobe Stock Photo)

Anatolian recipes and sauces: Flavorful connection to past

The ancient Roman cookbook Apicius describes the use of mortaria (stone mortars) to create flavorful spice mixes. These mortars are ideal for preparing sauces by grinding fresh spices such as peppercorns, coriander, and oregano, with the addition of liquamen (a fermented fish sauce), and olive oil.

This mixture can be used to season meat, fish, or even salads—just like in a bonito recipe, connecting modern Anatolian cooking to ancient culinary traditions.

What can you eat with fish?

A close-up of fresh lettuce placed in an ancient wooden bowl, resting on a rustic wooden table.
Fresh lettuce in an ancient wooden bowl on a rustic table. (Adobe Stock Photo)

Role of salads in ancient feasts

Salads were a key part of ancient feasts, and Apicius provides several recipes for them. A simple yet flavorful salad could include cabbage, coriander, onions, cumin, and raisins, all seasoned with vinegar and a drizzle of olive oil. The inclusion of cabbage and related vegetables like kale in ancient Greek and Roman cuisine shows their importance in the diet.

Though there is no concrete evidence of cabbage cultivation in the ancient Black Sea region, the area today is known for its authentic variety, karalahana (black cabbage), which has become a staple in the region’s gastronomy. Just like in a bonito recipe, this tradition highlights the deep culinary heritage of the area, connecting past and present flavors.

Porridges and patinas: Satisfying ancient appetites

Patina dishes, often made with fish, meat, vegetables, and eggs, are another ancient culinary tradition. The Black Sea region’s pirasa kayganasi (Leek Patina) could be made using the same methods as the Romans. Sautéed leeks, seasoned with spice mixes made in a mortaria, are combined with eggs to create a rich and flavorful dish.

Similarly, patina could also include salted fish, liver, boiled eggs, soft cheese, and spices, offering a hearty meal that has stood the test of time.

A close-up shot of hazelnuts drizzled with honey, placed on a smooth marble surface, showcasing the natural textures of both the nuts and the marble.
Hazelnuts drizzled with honey on a marble surface. (Adobe Stock Photo)

Finishing the meal with sweet ending: Honey and nuts

In ancient times, fruits, nuts, and honey were often used to finish a meal. Athenaeus also mentions a sweet treat made from sesame seeds, nuts, and honey, which was enjoyed by the ancients.

Today, this dish can be recreated by toasting sesame seeds, almonds, hazelnuts, and walnuts in a mortar, then combining them with honey to create a sweet, sticky mixture. Pour this onto wax paper and cut into squares or rectangles once cooled. This simple, yet delicious dessert is a perfect way to end an Anatolian meal.

The flavors of Anatolia are deeply intertwined with its rich history, from ancient Roman culinary traditions to modern Black Sea cuisine. By preserving and adapting ancient recipes, today’s chefs continue to bring the taste of the past into contemporary kitchens.

Last Updated:  Jan 28, 2025 10:38 AM