Istanbul’s historical cafe on Istiklal returns with contemporary art experience

Markiz Pastanesi, one of Istanbul’s most iconic historical cafes, is returning temporarily with an art project before its restoration.

The venue, which has been a cultural hub for decades, is now hosting “Awfully Marvelous” (Dehsetli Guzel), a contemporary art experience by the artist duo :mentalKLINIK in collaboration with Tugana Okan Nalcaci (Cutie Cake Co).

• Running from March 2 to 16, the project transforms Markiz into an interactive space that explores beauty, nostalgia, and consumer habits.

History of Markiz Pastanesi: How it became cultural meeting point

Markiz Pastanesi first opened as Lebon Pastanesi in 1838 when Edouard Lebon left the French Embassy to establish a cafe in Istanbul.

The venue became a favorite among intellectuals and artists, attracting well-known figures like Namik Kemal, Peyami Safa, Orhan Veli, and Attila Ilhan.

In 1940, Avadis Ohanyan Cakir bought the cafe and renamed it Markiz. He redesigned it with Art Nouveau decor, turning it into a cultural hotspot where writers and poets gathered.

The cafe remained an essential part of Istanbul’s cultural scene until 1980, when it closed. It reopened in 2003 after restoration, but it failed to regain its former atmosphere and shut down again in 2016.

In 2023, businessmen Mehmet Erkul and Tekin Esen purchased the building, leading to speculation about its revival. Before restoration begins, “Awfully Marvelous” is bringing Markiz back into the public eye.

Immersive and unconventional art project transforms historical cafe Markiz Pastanesi

“Awfully Marvelous” challenges modern ideas of beauty, social interactions, and consumer behavior. The project invites visitors into an unusual experience where the past and present merge.

Visitors encounter an AI-generated sound installation by Orkun Senturk, which recreates old conversations and gossip from Markiz’s past. The fragmented dialogue plays throughout the space, making it feel as though the voices of past guests still linger.

:mentalKLINIK describes the project as an effort to create a “microclimate of memories and imagination” rather than a direct attempt to restore Markiz to its original form. “We are not trying to transform Markiz Pastanesi,” the artists explain. “Instead, we have imagined an unrealized time-space, an awfully marvelous dream.”

One of the most striking elements of the project is the unconventional “celebration cake”. Created by Tugana Okan Nalcaci, the cake appears to be half-eaten, with cigarette butts and ice cubes scattered on top.

However, these objects are made entirely of sugar and are completely edible. The design forces visitors to reconsider their perceptions of presentation, taste, and consumption.

“This cake is a statement about the contradictions of modern dining culture,” explains :mentalKLINIK. “It is both elaborate and chaotic, attractive yet unsettling. Eating is no longer just an act of consumption—it becomes a performance, a story, and a moment of reflection.”

Future of Markiz Pastanesi, expectations surrounding its reopening

The return of Markiz Pastanesi through “Awfully Marvelous” has sparked conversations about its future. Many people have wondered whether the cafe will return to its original role or take on a new identity.

Murat Pilevneli, the founder of Pilevneli Gallery, explains that the project does not seek to redefine Markiz but rather to remind people of its significance. “We are fully aware that we are guests here,” he says. “Our goal is to make its beauty visible again and to create a dialogue between history and contemporary art.”

Co-owner Omer Esen confirms that Markiz will continue to host artistic events while staying true to its historical roots. Plans include launching a digital platform where people can share memories and experiences from Markiz, ensuring that its cultural heritage remains alive.

“We are committed to preserving the spirit of Markiz,” Esen states. “This project is just the beginning of a long-term vision.”

Visitors can experience “Awfully Marvelous” until March 16

• The exhibit is free between 12 p.m. and 2 p.m.
• Those who wish to taste the unique culinary creations can do so from 2 p.m. to 7 p.m. for a fee
• More information is available on Markiz’s official website