Graves among skyscrapers: How Istanbul’s cemeteries stand test of time

Istanbul is a city where life and death are intimately connected, with its cemeteries serving as living monuments to its diverse cultural heritage.

From Ottoman era-Muslim cemeteries nestled within bustling neighborhoods to Greek Orthodox and Jewish burial sites scattered across the city, Istanbul’s cemeteries are more than just eternal resting places. They are integral parts of the city’s soul, representing the living memory of its people.

A city built on past: Istanbul’s cemeteries in city’s heart

Istanbul’s cemeteries are a testament to the city’s rich history and multifaceted cultural identity. With a population surpassing 15 million, the city is home to a range of burial grounds, from those of the Muslim majority to Christian and Jewish communities. Many of these cemeteries date back to the Ottoman Empire, with some first established in the mid-15th century. Over the years, these burial sites have been swallowed up by the city’s urban sprawl, transforming from quiet, far-flung areas to central landmarks.

As Turkish poet Yahya Kemal once quipped, “We live with our dead.” Cemeteries in Istanbul are not isolated sanctuaries but active spaces where history, culture, and identity converge. For instance, it’s not uncommon to find yourself walking past Muslim cemeteries on the way to the metro, or leaving a shopping mall to face towering Greek Orthodox gravestones.

Life and death: Interconnection of past and present

Historian and author Fatih Cavus, who specializes in Ottoman gravestones, notes that life and death were inseparable in the Ottoman era. Istanbul’s cemeteries back then were not just secluded areas on the outskirts of the city; burials took place in mosque courtyards, schoolyards, and even in public spaces. People witnessed death as part of their daily lives.

Istanbul’s cemeteries, like the one in the courtyard of the Suleymaniye Mosque, stand as physical symbols of this connection. Within this small cemetery, visitors can find the tombs of legendary Ottoman figures like Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent and his wife Hurrem Sultan. The gravestones are intricately carved with turban-like shapes, symbolizing social status. These markers offer clues to the deceased’s identity—whether male or female, adult or child—through unique patterns like fez or turban designs, as well as floral motifs.

Moreover, the practice of adding water basins to graves serves as a poignant gesture of compassion toward animals, in line with Islamic beliefs. These basins collect rainwater, providing much-needed sustenance to birds and other creatures passing by.

Greek Orthodox cemeteries: Monumental markers of wealth and faith

In the heart of Istanbul’s Sisli district lies the city’s largest Greek Orthodox cemetery. Nestled between Armenian Catholic and Italian Jewish cemeteries, this site is a treasure trove of monumental tombs that reflect the Greek community’s legacy. The cemetery, relocated from Taksim in 1865 due to urban expansion and plague outbreaks, is almost like an open-air museum, boasting massive tombstones and floral decorations.

One of its most prominent features is the cabin-shaped graves, which resemble telephone booths and are thought to symbolize small churches. These elaborate tombs were commissioned by wealthy families in the 19th century and are a rare sight today, given the loss of skilled artisans.

Jewish Cemeteries: A tapestry of languages and cultures

At Istanbul’s Ulus Ashkenazi Jewish Cemetery, tombstones in various languages such as French, Russian, German, and Ladino stand beside those inscribed in Hebrew, reflecting the rich cultural tapestry of the Jewish community. Director Natan Siliki explains that these multilingual inscriptions are a testament to the diverse origins of Jewish migrants who settled in Istanbul over centuries.

A prime example of this is the tombstone of Avram Leyon, a Turkish Jewish journalist and founder of the Salom newspaper. His grave bears an inscription in Ladino that reads, “Aki esta repozando el grande jurnalisto,” meaning “Here lies the great journalist.”

Another unique aspect of Istanbul’s Jewish burial practices is the use of coffins, unlike other cities where shrouds are used for burials. This practice was implemented in response to the unique geographical challenges of the Haskoy Cemetery, where water seepage from the ground prompted religious authorities to adopt coffins to prevent the desecration of graves.

Istanbul’s cemeteries as cultural landmarks

Istanbul’s cemeteries are far more than places of mourning; they are living legacies of the city’s diverse communities and rich history. They are spaces where cultures collide and intertwine, leaving behind a mosaic of gravestones that tell the stories of past generations.

Whether it’s the graceful gravestones of the Ottoman Empire, the monumental tombs of the Greek Orthodox community, or the multilingual markers in the Jewish cemeteries, Istanbul’s burial grounds are a testament to the enduring connection between life and death in one of the world’s oldest cities.