‘Eli Bogrunde’: Kahramanmaras’ signature dish shines on iftar tables

Kahramanmaras‘ rich culinary heritage boasts many traditional flavors, and one of its most beloved dishes, “Eli Bogrunde,” takes center stage on iftar (fast-breaking dinner) tables during Ramadan. This geographically indicated specialty, prepared with succulent lamb, is a cherished part of the city’s gastronomic identity.

Cooked in traditional stone ovens, “Eli Bogrunde” derives its name from the way its ingredients are arranged and from the waiting posture of local tradesmen who would place their hands on their waists in anticipation. The dish owes its distinctive taste to rib meat combined with tail fat and enhanced with tomatoes, peppers and garlic.

Baked for approximately 15 minutes in a wood-fired oven, the dish emerges as a tender, flavorful delight, drawing immense interest from locals and visitors alike, particularly during Ramadan.

From a tradesmen’s meal to a registered delicacy

Alican Borekci, a local restaurateur who has been making “Eli Bogrunde” for decades, explained its humble origins. Speaking to Anadolu Agency, he recounted how the dish was traditionally a quick and affordable meal for market traders.

“This dish was once the go-to meal for tradesmen. They would cut an oil can, place meat, tomatoes, and peppers inside, and send it to the oven. Because it was both inexpensive and fast to prepare, it became very popular. Since the cooking process takes only about 15 minutes, traders would stand with their hands on their waists while waiting, which led to its unique name. Today, it has become one of Kahramanmaras’ registered culinary treasures,” Borekci explained.

Highlighting the importance of using high-quality meat, Borekci continued: “The dish is made with lamb, but we typically use mutton that does not exceed 22-23 kilograms (48.5-50.7 pounds) in weight, ensuring the right balance of fat. The rib section is essential, and the dish is always cooked over a wood fire. No spices are added—only a touch of thyme if desired.”

Eli Bogrunde:A must-try for food enthusiasts

During Ramadan, “Eli Bogrunde” sees a surge in demand, with visitors from all over Türkiye traveling to Kahramanmaras to experience its authentic taste.

“People come here just for this dish. We have guests from Istanbul, Konya, Izmir, and surrounding cities. Once they taste it, they spread the word. The best advertisement is always a satisfied customer,” Borekci noted.

Capturing hearts of visitors

For many first-time tasters, “Eli Bogrunde” delivers an unexpected but delightful surprise. Hediye Sezen Ersahan, a visitor from Istanbul, admitted she was unfamiliar with the dish before coming to Kahramanmaras. “I had never heard of it before, and at first, the name sounded unusual. I even imagined it as a meatball wrapped in eggplant. But after trying it, I absolutely loved it. I highly recommend it to everyone—it’s a completely unique flavor.”

Mehmet Turkmen, a visitor from Sanliurfa, also shared his enthusiasm. “When I first heard the name, I was curious. But after tasting it, I was hooked. Now, I recommend it to everyone I know. It’s the perfect dish for meat lovers.”

As “Eli Bogrunde” continues to gain recognition beyond Kahramanmaras, it plays a significant role in boosting the city’s gastronomic tourism.