Suomenlinna: Finnish island where only soldiers and a lucky few can live

Suomenlinna (Sveaborg) is a maritime fortress built on a group of islands near Helsinki, gradually constructed from 1748 onward. Today, it is home to around 800 residents, most of whom live in state-owned buildings managed by the Suomenlinna Governing Board.
The fortress spans eight separate islands, covering 80 hectares (197.68 acres), and has served three different ruling states over time: the Kingdom of Sweden, the Russian Empire, and, most recently, the Republic of Finland.
Originally built using local rock and reinforced with a bastion system, the fortress was designed to defend Sweden against the Russian Empire and serve as a fortified military base, complete with a dry dock.
During the 19th-century Russian period, additional sand dunes, barracks and other structures were added. The defensive system was modernized with contemporary fortification equipment.

Transformation and protection of Suomenlinna
After Finland gained independence in 1917, the fortress was renamed Suomenlinna (the Fortress of Finland) and functioned as a garrison and naval base. Its military role diminished after World War II, and by 1973, the area was converted for civilian purposes. Since then, the buildings have been repurposed into apartments, workspaces, public services, and cultural venues.
The island is legally protected under national legislation. Fortification structures are safeguarded by the 1963 Antiquities Act, while the church is protected under the 1994 Church Act. The Suomenlinna Governing Board, a state agency under the Ministry of Education and Culture, owns most of the historic buildings and oversees their restoration and maintenance. The board employs around 90 people and is funded through the central government budget and rental income.

Climate change and visitor impact
Suomenlinna is surrounded by open waters and nature reserves. While there are no imminent threats to the site’s integrity, climate change poses a potential risk. Rising sea levels could accelerate coastal erosion, and increased rainfall may damage wooden and stone structures.
Additionally, higher visitor numbers in summer have contributed to the erosion of the sandy dunes. To mitigate this, access to sensitive areas is restricted during peak seasons, and regular assessments are conducted to monitor environmental impacts.

Tourism growth in 2024
In 2024, Suomenlinna welcomed approximately 991,000 visitors. The number of visitors from September to December surpassed previous years, aligning with figures from the late 2010s. However, visitor numbers in early January and the peak summer months of July and August remained below pre-pandemic levels.
Around 30,000 visitors explored the UNESCO World Heritage site and its naval history through guided tours adhering to sustainable tourism principles. The number of participants in guided tours increased by 60% compared to the previous year. English-language tours saw an 80% rise in visitors compared to the previous summer, while winter tours also recorded a 60% increase in participants. Custom private tours and group programs also saw significant growth.

Living in Suomenlinna: A rare opportunity
Suomenlinna is a highly sought-after residential area, with a limited number of apartments available. Even for a single vacancy, hundreds of applicants may compete, as there is no waiting list system like in Helsinki’s rental market.
“Applicants are first selected based on household size, meaning that a single person should not apply for a large family apartment.

After screening candidates suitable for a particular apartment, a lottery draw determines the final residents,” explains Suomenlinna Governing Board member Koskenniemi.
In principle, apartments are first offered to current island residents and then to those working in Suomenlinna. The Governing Board’s website announces vacancies, but demand far exceeds supply. Diversity is encouraged in the community, but not everyone can live there. The presence of military facilities means that soldiers are among the residents, along with a few lucky individuals chosen through the draw.

Challenges of living on Suomenlinna Island
Living in Suomenlinna is similar to mainland life in many ways, but there are key differences—most notably transportation. No bridge will ever be built to the island, meaning that all trips rely on ferry services. While it is possible to transport a personal car by ferry, it is costly and parking spaces are extremely limited.
Another major difference is that the historic residential buildings lack elevators. Installing modern lifts would disrupt the architectural integrity of these protected structures. While a few accessible apartments exist, the island’s sloping terrain, stone paths, and gravel roads make mobility challenging for those with physical limitations.

Suomenlinna remains a unique and historically rich place to live, but residency requires both military affiliation or sheer luck in the housing lottery. The fortress island, with its stunning scenery and cultural heritage, continues to attract visitors and prospective residents alike.